Why Should You Use a Dirt Bike Stand?

The day you bring home a new motocross bike is the day you find out it doesn’t have a kickstand. If you’re lucky, it came with that cheesy little triangle stand that plugs into the rear axle. It holds the bike up long enough for the first driveway photo. After that, most of those triangles end up in a corner of the garage, and the bike ends up leaning against the wall.

You should use a dirt bike stand any time you’re not riding. Most motocross bikes don’t have a kickstand, so a stand holds the bike up between motos and keeps both wheels off the ground for cleaning, repairs, and storage.

Rookies and pros deal with the same problem, which is why the pits at any motocross track are full of bikes sitting on stands. Keep reading for what a dirt bike stand is, which kind fits how you ride, how to get your bike onto one without hurting yourself, and what goes wrong when you skip it.

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What Is a Dirt Bike Stand?

A dirt bike stand holds your bike upright by the frame, right under the engine, with both wheels off the ground. Because it holds the bike up from the center, you’ll sometimes hear it called a center stand. Most are made of steel or aluminum, shaped something like a heavy-duty stool, with a rubber pad on top that grips the frame.

Because the bike isn’t leaning on anything, it’s stable enough to work on, easy to clean, and not holding its weight on its tires while it sits. Risk Racing’s A.T.S. Magnetic Stand takes that idea a few steps further, and we’ll get to it below.

Dirt Bike Stands vs. Kickstands

Do dirt bikes have kickstands? Some do. Motocross bikes, the race models like the Honda CRF450R, Yamaha YZ, Kawasaki KX, and KTM SX, come from the factory without one. A lot of off-road and trail models do have one. Honda’s CRF450RX, the off-road version of the CRF450R, comes with a forged aluminum kickstand, for example.

Ask around the pits why motocross bikes skip the kickstand, and you’ll hear the same few reasons. A kickstand is one more thing hanging off the bike to snag on something or get bent in a crash, and plenty of motocross riders consider one unsafe on a track. It also adds weight to a bike that’s built to be as light as possible. And between motos, the bike is going on a stand anyway.

You can bolt an aftermarket kickstand onto most motocross bikes, and some riders who also hit the trails do. But even with a kickstand, the bike is leaning on one skinny leg with both wheels on the ground. For cleaning, repairs, and storage, a stand is still the go-to in the dirt bike world.

The Most Popular Types of Dirt Bike Stands

No single stand is perfect for every job. A few are built to be quick and light at the track. Others do the lifting for you. The heavy-duty ones raise the bike to a comfortable working height for long jobs in the shop.

Here’s a look at the more popular types of stands and what they’re for.

• Triangle Stands: The small stand that plugs into the bike, usually at the rear axle, and props it up at an angle, like a removable kickstand. A lot of new motocross bikes come with one, and owner’s manuals call it a plug-in stand or a sidestand. They’re light and cheap, but they leave both wheels on the ground, the bike leans, and they’re easy to knock over. Not many riders keep using theirs past the first day.
• Fixed Stands: The classic motocross stand you’ll see all over the pits: one set height, a rubber top, and nothing to adjust. You lift the bike onto it. Because every bike’s frame sits a little differently, and an aftermarket skid plate changes it again, a fixed stand can leave the front or rear tire touching the ground. Very frustrating when that’s the tire you want to remove for maintenance purposes!
• Lift Stands: A lift stand does some of the work for you. The bike goes onto the stand at its low height, then you step on a pedal or turn a crank and the stand raises the bike the rest of the way.
• Hydraulic Stands: Hydraulic lifts, including scissor jack lifts, raise the whole bike to a comfortable working height so you’re not kneeling on the garage floor for a long job. They’re bigger and heavier, so they’re more of a shop tool than something you haul to the track.

Those are the general types. Here’s how Risk Racing’s own stands line up.

Which Risk Racing Dirt Bike Stand Is Right for You?

Risk Racing makes three stands. Any of them will handle the garage, the pits, and the trailer, so you can’t really pick wrong. Each one is just best at something different.

A.T.S. Adjustable Top Magnetic Stand: Best in the Garage

The Risk Racing A.T.S. Magnetic Stand fixes the tire-on-the-ground problem that comes with a fixed stand.

A.T.S. stands for adjustable top stand. Two aluminum turnbuckles set the angle of the top to match your bike’s frame, then lock in place, so the bike sits level with both tires in the air. Change bikes or bolt on a new skid plate, and you just reset it.

Magnets built into both side panels hold nuts, bolts, and small tools while you work, so they don’t roll under the workbench. The top has a large oil drain hole and an oversized non-slip rubber pad that’s easy on your frame.

Here’s how it works.

RR1 Ride-On Lift Stand: Best When You Don’t Want to Lift

Lifting a dirt bike onto a stand is fine on a Tuesday afternoon. It’s a different story after lap after lap, when your arms are cooked and you’ve got nothing left in the tank. The RR1 Ride-On Lift Stand does the lifting for you. Roll the bike onto it, and when the front tire hits the front bar, the stand rises to meet the frame. Step on the foot pedal and the bike comes up off the ground. That makes it just as handy for shorter riders and anyone with a sore back.

It locks in the up or down position with its locking pin, has an oil drain hole in the rubber top, and works with motocross bikes from 85cc to 450cc, plus enduro bikes built on a motocross-style frame. Here’s Rocky Mountain ATV/MC’s take on it.

F.F.S. Factory Fold Stand: Best for the Track and Trailer

The F.F.S. Factory Fold Stand is built for race day. It’s steel and aluminum with no plastic, and it folds down to 3 inches flat, so it slides into the truck, trailer, or van without eating your space. A locking safety pin holds it open, the rubberized top grips the frame, and fold-out tool trays keep your hardware handy. It’s made for motocross bikes up to 265 pounds. Pair it with the rest of your motocross pit setup.

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When to Use a Dirt Bike Stand

Short answer: any time the bike isn’t moving. When you climb off a bike with no kickstand, it has three places to go: a stand, a wall, or the ground. The stand is the right one between motos, overnight in the garage, and all winter. Leaning the bike against the garage wall or laying it on its side is the wrong one, and we’ll get to why.

At the Track, Between Motos

Between motos, the bike goes on the stand. In a crowded pit, that keeps it from getting bumped over, and with the wheels up you can knock off the mud, check your chain, and look the bike over before the next gate drop. It’s also where a tired rider wants the bike to be, and it’s exactly the moment the RR1 was made for.

When Cleaning the Dirt Bike

After a muddy track or a dusty weekend on the trails, the bike comes home covered in dirt, mud, and grime. It just comes with the territory.

Most of us wash the bike in the driveway with soap and a hose or a pressure washer, and a dirt bike stand makes that job a lot quicker. Here’s how.

Cleaning Your Wheels

With both wheels off the ground, you can spin each wheel by hand and hit every spoke, the rim, the hub, and the tread without dragging the bike around. Any stand that lifts both tires lets you do this. A triangle stand or a wall doesn’t. Plug the exhaust before you start, and keep the pressure washer nozzle back and off the wheel bearings, electrical connectors, and cables. Owner’s manuals warn that high pressure forces water into places it doesn’t belong.

360 Degrees of Cleaning

On a stand, you have 360-degree access to your bike. Walk all the way around it and spray into every crevice mud likes to pack into. And since the bike is up off the ground, you can reach the underside too: the bottom of the frame, the skid plate, and the rear suspension linkage.

When Making Major & Minor Repairs

DIY repairs take your full attention. Your hands should be on the axle nut or the drain bolt, not holding up a full-size bike that weighs somewhere around 240 to 250 pounds with fuel in it. There’s a reason owner’s manuals start so many wheel, chain, and suspension jobs the same way: put the bike on a stand. For the full routine, see the basic maintenance for a dirt bike.

Oil Changes

Fresh oil is cheap. An engine rebuild isn’t. Changing your dirt bike’s oil yourself saves you the trip to the shop and the labor bill, and a stand makes the job a heck of a lot easier.

With the bike sitting level on a stand, you can reach the drain bolt under the engine and slide a drain pan underneath. Stands like the A.T.S. and the RR1 have an oil drain hole in the top for exactly this.

What you’re changing depends on the engine. On a four-stroke, you drain the engine oil, change the filter, and refill. Some bikes have more than one drain bolt, so check your manual. On most two-strokes, the oil that lubricates the engine is mixed into the gas, so an oil change means draining and refilling the transmission oil. A few fuel-injected two-strokes feed engine oil from a separate tank instead, and the transmission oil still gets changed.

Tire Changes

Fresh knobbies for race day or a flat from the trail, a tire change goes a lot better with the bike on a stand. With the wheel off the ground, you can loosen the axle, slide it out, and take the wheel out (on the rear, push the wheel forward and slip the chain off the sprocket first), then get to work breaking the bead and swapping the tire or tube. The A.T.S. magnetic side panels and the F.F.S. fold-out tool trays both keep the axle nut and hardware where you can find them, instead of under that dreaded toolbox.

Other Types of Repairs

Plenty of other jobs are easier with the bike up and stable:

• Cleaning, lubing, and adjusting the chain
• Setting sag and other suspension adjustments
• Fork seal and fork service
• Brake pad replacements
• Wheel bearing replacements
• Exhaust replacement

Just know the procedure and torque specs before you start. A stand makes the job easier, but it won’t catch a mistake for you.

For Storage Purposes

When the bike is parked, overnight or for the whole off-season, it belongs on a stand instead of leaning on the wall. Owner’s manuals say the same thing: store it on a stand with both tires off the ground.

Taking the Weight Off Your Tires and Suspension

A bike that sits for a few weeks slowly loses tire pressure, and a soft tire holding up a 240-pound bike on a concrete floor isn’t doing itself any favors. With both wheels off the ground, the tires and suspension aren’t carrying the bike’s weight the whole time it sits. It won’t fix worn-out suspension, but it’s an easy habit. On the A.T.S., adjust the turnbuckles so both tires clear the floor.

When to Use the Stand for Storage

Every time you park it. A quick break at the track, overnight in the garage, the whole winter: if you’re off the bike, it goes on the stand. A motocross bike has no kickstand to fall back on, and the garage wall only works until the front wheel turns.

A stand doesn’t take up any more room than your dirt bike already does, so it fits wherever you keep the bike: the garage, the shed, or a corner of the trailer. For storage, Risk Racing’s RR1 Ride-On Stand locks in the up position, so your bike isn’t going anywhere, and neither is the stand. The F.F.S. has a locking safety pin that does the same job, then folds flat when you need the floor space back.

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How to Put a Dirt Bike on a Stand (Tips for Smaller or Shorter People)

Putting a dirt bike on a stand sounds simple until you remember how heavy the bike is. Getting it up there comes down to technique more than strength.

Being on the shorter side doesn’t rule it out. Megs Braap, who calls herself a super short rider, shows her method in the video below: instead of picking up the whole bike, you lift the front wheel and let the rear tire carry the rest while you guide the bike onto the stand.

How to lift a dirt bike onto a stand for short people

1. Set the stand right next to the middle of the bike.
2. Stand on the right side, next to the front wheel. Squeeze the front brake lever with your left hand so the wheel doesn’t spin as you lift.
3. With your right hand, grab the front wheel and lift the front end up.
4. Walk the bike over the stand so the frame comes down on the rubber top.
5. Adjust/rotate the bike on the stand until it’s balanced, with both wheels off the ground.

Plenty of riders use a second method: stand beside the bike, grab the rear fender where it meets the seat, lean the bike toward you, and lift while giving it a bump with your hip to get the frame up onto the stand. For more options, see how to lift a dirt bike onto a stand.

And if you’d rather skip lifting altogether because your back is sore or you’re wiped out after a long day of riding, the RR1 lifts the bike for you.

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The Problems With Not Using a Dirt Bike Stand

A stand makes cleaning, repairs, and storage easier. Here’s what happens when you go without one and lean the bike against the wall or lay it on its side instead.

The Bike Tipping Over

This is the plan where you lean the bike against a tree, a fence, or the garage wall. You know how it goes: the tires slide on the floor, the front wheel turns, or the bike wasn’t as balanced as you thought. There’s no stopping a 240-pound dirt bike once it starts to tip.

Cosmetic Damage

A tip-over onto a concrete floor is rarely gentle. The plastics take the hit first, so expect scratches and scuffs at best, and a cracked or broken fender or side panel at worst. The clutch and brake levers are next in line: they bend or snap, and the grips get chewed up. Hit the floor hard enough and you can bend the handlebar, too. None of it is a fun way to find out you need parts.

Scratching or Damaging the Bike

Riders who know better don’t lay a dirt bike on its side. When it happens, it’s usually someone who just bought a bike and only has a Jeep or an SUV to get it home, or someone who hasn’t figured out how to haul one upright yet. Either way, don’t do it.

On its side, the bike rests on the end of the handlebar, the plastics, and whatever else sticks out, and every bump in the road grinds those parts into the floor. Getting it back up usually means dragging a heavy bike across the ground, which scrapes up the plastics, the graphics, and anything metal that touches down. And that’s just the outside of the bike.

Oil & Gas Leaks

Your bike should stay upright, including when you haul it to the track. A dirt bike isn’t built to sit on its side, and fluids start going places they shouldn’t.

Damaging Your Truck

Lay a bike down in the back of a truck or SUV and fuel can seep out of the vent hose and the gas cap, leaving a puddle wherever the bike sits. Now your ride home smells like gas, and you’ve got a flammable mess to clean up.

Oil in the Airbox

On a four-stroke, there’s a less obvious problem. With the bike on its side, engine oil can run out through the crankcase breather hose, which on many bikes is routed to the airbox. Riders who have laid a four-stroke over often find oil soaked into the air filter afterward. Check the airbox before you ride, because an oily filter is the last thing you want to discover on the starting line.

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Transporting Your Bike Without a Stand

Lock Your Bike Down Upright

Laying the bike down in the back of the truck is the rookie move that gets you everything above: leaks, oil in the airbox, and scratched plastics. And a stand is no help on the road, because there’s no way your bike will stay put on a stand in a moving truck bed.

That’s where the Risk Racing Lock-N-Load and Lock-N-Load Pro transport systems come in. Install the system in your trailer, truck bed, or van, roll the bike in, and lock it down by the footpegs. No tie-down straps needed. For every way to haul a bike, see the dirt bike tie-down system buyer’s guide.

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Conclusion

A motocross bike doesn’t come with a kickstand, so a dirt bike stand isn’t really optional. It holds the bike up between motos, makes cleaning and repairs easier, and keeps the weight off the tires and suspension in storage.

Skip it, and the bike is one bump away from a bent lever or cracked plastics.

Leave the cheesy triangle in the corner and give the garage wall a break. If you’re in the market for a dirt bike stand, the A.T.S. levels your bike in the garage. When your arms are cooked after one more moto, the RR1 does the lifting. Headed to the track? The F.F.S. folds flat and saves space in the truck. Pick the one that fits how you ride. Any of them beats the wall.

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